TOPICS: Lie Angle Type Blades Shaft

IRONS

How Far Do You Hit Your Irons?

Frank,

I am a 45 year old with the height of 5'8" I have been playing for a long time and am a scratch handicap. Here is my problem, or so I think: I hit my driver on average 280 to 285, but I have a problem hitting my irons. Most of my friends hit their irons farther than I do; for example, they hit a 9  iron around 135, and the most I can hit it is 110. I am generallly hitting one or two more clubs than they are. Can you help me with this?

 Bruce

Bruce,
If you are hitting your drives 280 plus and your 9-iron only 110 yards, then there is something going on, but I wouldn’t be too concerned if you’re hitting your irons well and consistently. Having said this, though, we need to ask why, when your head speed using your driver results in 280-yard drives, you are only getting 110 with the 9-iron. There are at least three things that contribute to distance with an iron: 1) head speed; 2) loft angle; and 3) impact point on the face.  This assumes that the swing path in all three cases is constant .

First, I have no idea why your head speed would be unusually slow with the 9-iron (and presumably also with the rest of your irons) unless the shaft is very much shorter than standard or your technique is very different than what you use with your driver. Either of these two factors could contribute to the slower speed.

Second, the lofts may be similar to what they were forty years ago, when a 9-iron was 48 degrees. This 48 degree loft is now a weak PW. If this is the case, then don’t worry, because all you have to do is know which club hits what distance and stop comparing club for club with your buddies. This may turn out to be an advantage if your buddies are looking in your bag to see which club you “stiffed” to the pin. If they pull out the same club from the same location, they will be 25 yards beyond the flag.

Third; I am sure that you are hitting the sweet spot, being a scratch golfer. But the trajectory could be very much higher than you would like, which could have an effect on the distance. A club head with the center of gravity (c.g.) higher in the club and closer to the face -- i.e., a blade design -- will lower the trajectory  and give you a little more distance.

Bruce, I think the bottom line is that we can check out a few things, but if you’re hitting the ball well with your irons don’t worry about your buddies. Just make sure that you know how far you hit each club and use them accordingly.
Frank

 

 

Sharp Grooves

Sir:

Thank you for your service.

My irons are 6 months old.  They are cast.  Despite a fair amount of play, the grooves continue to shred golf balls, even very hard ones.  I can't use a high-spin ball, because I have to replace them too often.  What can I do to make the grooves less sharp?

Davis

Davis,
I assume that this is happening with all the clubs in your set.
First you need to understand that if the club cuts the cover, you are taking something away from the efficiency of impact and spin. The reason is similar to a situation where you stretch a sling shot with rubber bands, and before releasing it you cut it the bands. The projectile (stone) will remain in your hand without anywhere to go. Similarly, the elastic cover of the ball will not do its thing as effectively as it would if the cover remained intact for the full duration of impact, allowing it to stretch during the windup phase and spring back during the recovery phase.

So cutting (shredding) the cover of the ball is not good, both because of the reduced spin and because the “feathers” caused by the shredding will have a detrimental effect on the aerodynamic properties of the ball.

So how do you fix this? You must be careful, because the minute you try to soften the radius on the edge of the groove you will very likely increase the size of the groove. If the grooves were initially designed to be at the legal spacing limit  -- no less than three times the width of the adjacent groove -- and you increase the size of the groove, you may render these clubs non-conforming with the Rules of Golf.
If, however, the edge of the grooves became rounded due to wear, then there would be no violation -- see Rule 4-1b:  “A club that conforms with the Rules when new is deemed to conform after wear through normal use.”

So I suggest that you spend some time hitting balls on the range – ideally one with sandy soil conditions -- until your clubs wear down a little and stop shredding the cover of the range balls. This exercise will probably do your game some good anyway.  Practice never hurt anybody’s game.

 

More on Grooves.....

Frank,
I play golf for a State Women’s Golf Team and am concerned about what the USGA is proposing with regard to changing the groove rules. If the USGA adopts the change, will my clubs be non-conforming?
Nancy

Nancy,
The USGA’s proposal includes a longer grace period for most golfers but also will include a “Condition of Competition” as of Jan1 2009. This means that if you decide to enter the US Women’s Open in 2009 and the Condition of Competition is adopted at this event (which is very likely as it is a major USGA Championship involving highly skilled players) then it is very possible that your clubs will not conform and you will have to get a new set if you want to compete.

“…..the USGA would recommend that the Condition apply only to competitions involving highly skilled players.”

Based on the fact that you represent your State in Competitions you are considered to be in the category of a “skilled player”.

I don’t know which set of clubs you have at present but they are probably reasonably close to the limit re. the grooves specifications. In essence the new proposal calls for a decrease in the groove cross sectional area by 50% of what today’s specifications presently allow.

“…….would limit the total cross-sectional area of a groove divided by the groove pitch (width plus separation) to 0.0025 square inches per inch.”  

The present rules have this limit at 0.005 square inches per inch. So in essence the volume of the groove has been cut in half, because the pros on tour spin the ball too much out of the light rough.  So if your clubs have grooves which when new were only 60% of the way to the limit by today’s specifications, they will be affected by the proposed change and you will need to buy a new set.

If you want to read more and have your say click here  

Hope this helps
Frank.

 

U-Grooves

Hi Frank,
I've been reading about the USGA's new report on the effect of U grooves.  I bought a new set of Ping G5 irons in the past year and don't relish the thought that they might soon be declared illegal.  Do you think the USGA will implement a rule change on this subject, and if so, is there likely to be a grandfather clause for irons already on the market?
Thanks for your thoughts.
--Pat

Pat,
Based on the USGA’s approach to equipment regulation over the last several years, and assuming the manufacturers don’t mount a concerted effort to object, I’d say the proposal for a rule change on grooves is very likely to be adopted.  I’d also say such a rule is irrational and illogical – and, sadly, it’s in keeping with the USGA’s recent actions I first discussed this topic in my November 2006 Frankly Friends Newsletter. Click here to read "My Take On Grooves."

We need the USGA, because we need someone to bring order to our game. But it’s a shame when good science is inappropriately applied, and your letter asks the kind of question that can lead to the disaffection of  its constituents and loss of its authority.  
The concern that has been cited as the impetus for the proposal revolves, first around .001% of the golfing population and secondly and more importantly the problem which is trying to be resolved has not been adequately defined. Also there is no evidence that the game (on the tour or elsewhere) will benefit from the change. It will certainly be different and may be costly to implement and difficult to monitor.

The USGA explains this proposal by saying that the rough is not enough of a penalty for the long and wayward golfers using U-shaped grooves on the professional Tours. What they haven’t said is that this problem – if it is a problem – applies only to light rough (1 to 2 inches thick).  If it’s any longer, there’s no performance difference between any types of grooves; the grass is too long for it to matter.  So if you’re concerned about accuracy on the pro tour – assuming you want to make your Rules for all players not based on the performance of the top .001% of the golfing population – all you have to do is grow rough to about 3 to 4 inches in areas where the long and wild hitters land their drives.  The USGA is citing data that suggests that at regular Tour stops, the rough (if you can call it that) is barely a fraction of a stroke penalty – but the graduated rough the USGA grew for the U.S. Open in 2006 proved to be more than a half-stroke penalty.   I doubt the pros forgot to pack their U-grooves that week. 

I believe it is a grave mistake to determine rules for all golfers based on the performance of the tiniest elite fraction of the golfing population. Most golfers I know don’t need any more restrictions. My research on more than 18,000 concerned golfers does not show a single person who has quit the game because it is too easy. Yet the number of rounds being played is falling by about 3% each year. This is where the USGA should be concentrating its efforts, not on correcting problems for the very few that can be easily solved in another way.  The overall health of the game should be the indicator of how effective the USGA is as guardian of the game, not the scores being shot by champion professionals (which, for general information, the average per round has not changed more than 0.1 of a stroke since 1988)
Sorry about this, but you pushed my hot button.

The current proposal includes a grace period of 10 years for clubs that conformed prior to the adoption of the change. But if your golf club or a competition you enter adopts a “Condition of the Competition” that will be included in the Rules of Golf after January 1st 2009, then you could be penalized for using your existing irons or any other clubs that currently conform but may be affected by the proposed new rule.

Please help me convince the USGA that we like them but to stop being silly and start concentrating on real problems.  I have some thoughts about how we can work together to accomplish this; watch this space for a future announcement.   Frank  

Iron Updates

Frank:
I am currently using Callaway X-14 irons. I love them, but they are about 10 years old now. How often should you update your irons?
Brandon

Brandon,
Iron technology has not changed very much when you compare it to the changes that have been made over the last ten years in drivers. I believe your X-14s were introduced in 2002, and few significant changes have been made to change the overall performance since then. There is, however, the overriding “Placebo Effect” that comes into play when you buy something new; whether technically better or not, you feel good about the new club, and that feeling gives you confidence.  This effect will influence your performance significantly more than the change in technology of the new design.

In its simplest form, an iron is a piece of metal on the end of a stick. This piece of metal has changed in shape over the years to position its center of gravity (c.g.) low and in the center of the face. Also, the material has been distributed to the perimeter of the head to increase the MOI (forgiveness factor). The c.g. has been moved as far toward the back of the head as possible. The sole has also increased in size to create more bounce and more forgiveness of mistakes.  All of these things have been incorporated into the design of irons for at least 10 years or more, with only minor tweaks to the design since then.

Bottom line is that there have been many changes, but they’re of small importance when it comes to a performance improvement that we can actually detect. Having said this, we must admit that there is nothing like a brand new set of irons in our bag for a new season. Be careful, however, not to let your old set know that you’re thinking about replacing them, especially if you’ve made good friends of them and they generally do what they are told.
Frank

 

If you are serious about improving your game, rather than just wanting to improve your scores,  is it better to be hitting a "more forgiving iron" OR is it better to learn to hit a less forgiving iron correctly?
Thanks for your opinion, Lori.

Lori,
This is a tough one. Let me say that there are not too many golfers who really want to improve their game through hard work and practice. It is easier and less time consuming to go out and buy a forgiving set of clubs that will forgive our miss hits and work almost as well as those clubs designed for the pros.

There is nothing better than hitting the sweet spot on a blade iron but also nothing very exciting about missing that spot. So to improve your game (skills) you should probably strive to use a set which is a little better than you are and keep moving up as your skills improve. It is not much fun hitting bad shots and forgiving clubs reduce this somewhat. But they also make you lazy in that you rely on the forgiveness and this reduces the incentive to improve your skills. Forgiving clubs will probably keep you playing the game for fun but blades will definitely give you a good measure of how much you need to work on you game to improve your skills.

Does Reshafting Revitalize Irons?

Hi, Frank:

I was just wondering about reshafting my old favorite clubs.  Is it worth it to reshaft clubs?  The clubs I’m speaking of are Browning 500's (blades,approximately 15 years old). I think they’re almost a collector’s item and I really love and miss playing with them , I currently use Titleist 990's and I like them as well, but I just miss the feel of my old Brownings.

Does a club-head itself lose some of its pop and/or distance with time, or is it more the shaft?  Will reshafting bring the oldies back to life , or should I just let them rest ?  I would really appreciate it if you could clear up this situation for me.

Thank you very much,
Scott

Scott,
Your fifteen year old Browning 500 blades are ready for retirement. Not because they are losing their oomph, because they don't do this. Generally it’s the person at the grip end of the club which has a problem with the Oomph factor as time goes by. Neither the heads nor the shafts wear out, but grooves, grips and golfers do.

If you like your Titleist 990s, then find a place on the mantel or a warm place in the basement for your Browning 500s. Iron technology hasn't changed much recently, but you are certainly ready for an upgrade with 15 year old clubs -- as you have already realized, since you’ve done something about it. 

Also, you should look into some hybrids that match your iron set and have the same flex shaft as the fairway woods. If you don't have a gap wedge, make sure you also get one of these -- about 50-  to 52- degree loft to fill the gap between your pitching and sand wedges. Check out my guide to hybrids and wedges by visiting www.franklygolf.com

Say something nice to your Browning 500s for me when you find a deserving place for them.
Frank 

 

 

Frank,
Do you think I should consider trying hybrid club to replace my 3 & or 4 iron.
I'm bogey golfer and find it hard to hit my long irons. Will new hybrids be more forgiving and which ones should I try.
Thanks
 Norm S

Norm,
There is no doubt in my mind that you should replace your 3 and 4 irons with hybrids. These are generally about an inch longer than the club they are replacing with a similar loft. The bigger, more forgiving head with a wide sole will allow you to hit the ball more efficiently and as far or a little farther then the iron it is replacing. The greater forgiveness will tend to give you considerably more consistent shots which will on average be very much more accurate than the long irons. The difference between long irons and hybrids is tremendous especially in your case where you are finding it “hard to hit my long irons”.

For most of us, there is only one place for a 3-and 4-iron and that is on the mantel shelf, well secured to a wooden board so you are not tempted to put them back in your bag.

 

LIE ANGLE

The Truth About Lies 

Hi Frank,

I currently play with a set of off-the-rack, three-years-old standard loft/lie irons from a reputable manufacturer.  I do not carry a handicap, but I usually score in the low 80's.  I played with a club pro who advised me that I would benefit from a set of properly fitted clubs, which I both understand and agree with.

During a static fitting, my wrist measured 37.5 inches from the ground, which indicates I need clubs that are more upright than standard.  I have not experienced any real directional problems with my irons;  if I do lose a shot the tendency is to hook it, which I am told is the opposite tendency for someone who is playing irons with too flat a lie angle.  My divots are rather shallow but are usually even in their depth.  I also realize that my posture, stance, and swing motion do have an affect on my club position as I strike the ball, and you can't see this.  However, I would like to know, before spending between $700-$900 for new irons, is there that much of a performance difference between two sets of irons that are only separated by about one or two degrees in their respective lie angles?  Are there any studies that put a average yardage dispersion on clubs at each lie angle if a single golfer were to hit those clubs at each lie angle?  Any information you could provide will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Mike

Mike,
I am so pleased that you’ve written to me before you laid down $700 to $900 for a new set of clubs only because of concern about the lie angle.

First of all, from the description of your game, divot pattern and ball flight, I don't think you have a lie problem at all.  You are correct in your assumption that if your lie angle was too flat the ball would be going off to the right with a slight fade. This, you say, is not the problem; in fact, you indicate that when you lose a shot it goes to the left with a slight hook, which would suggest that the lie angle -- if this were the problem -- is too upright.

As I said, I don't think you have a lie angle problem, but if you want to be sure and test this, use a piece of pressure-sensitive tape on the sole of the test club (generally a 6-iron) and hit a few balls off a lie board.  If the scuff mark on the tape is not in the center of the sole, and your ball flight is not straight, then you (or a local club maker) can make a lie adjustment by bending the club head. This is certainly not going to cost you $700+ dollars.

Iron technology has not changed very much in the last several (in fact, in the last ten or more) years, so if you’re happy with the way you hit the ball with your three-year-old standard set (standards generally fit most of us) then you don't really need another set. You will not hit the ball any farther or measurably straighter with a new set unless you frequently miss the sweet spot and are playing with a set of irons (blades) designed for the elite golfer.

While your set is definitely not old in iron terms, you might want to look into getting one or two hybrids if you don't carry these in your bag already. Look for the same manufacturer as your irons and/or talk to your pro and get his advice on some hybrids. Dump your 3- and even 4- iron and replace them with hybrids of the same loft but no more than an inch longer than the iron it is replacing. You will have a lot more fun hitting these than the long irons.

I hope this will save you some money and a bunch of grief.  Mike, there are some "lies" that you can't rely on.
Frank

 

 

Hi Frank,

One thing has always puzzled me. According to everyone, having your irons set for the proper lie is important, but hardly anyone talks about the lies for fairway woods. As you are often hitting the ball with a fairway wood as it lies on the fairway, I would assume that having the proper lie angle is almost as important as having the proper angle in your irons. But the only manufacturer that I have seen mentioning it much is Ping.

Also, I assume that because you tee up the ball when you are using your driver, the lie angle is not as important, but does not having the club at the proper lie when it strikes the ball impart a significant, disadvantageous spin?

Regards,
Randall Kido

Randall,
It is very important to get the lie angle correct for your particular swing with your irons especially the lofted irons. When it comes to a loft of 15 degrees (average three wood) the lie angle being slightly off doesn't have much effect on the trajectory. As far as the other fairway woods are concerned these are also not sufficiently lofted to be affected by the lie angle so don't need to be adjusted and have been made to suit the average lie angle for most golfers. Probably as important, these clubs are not designed to be adjusted. It is a convenience to the manufacturer not to increase the inventory by an extra half a dozen different lie angles. The short hosel and, in many cases the bore through shafts makes it difficult to adjust lie angle without damaging the club.

As far as a driver is concerned the loft of this club is generally less than 15 degrees and thus the lie angle is not a major factor as long as it suites the average golfer.

Hope this helps.

Fran

 

TYPE

 

Time For a Change?

Mr. Thomas,

Are the Callaway Fusion irons more forgiving than the Callaway X-18 irons? I am a 5 handicapper and have used the X-14's for 5 years with a regular Rifle shaft. I have been pleased with the X-14's, but, like all golfers, I am always wondering if there is something better. Should I switch to the Fusions? If yes, what shaft should I get?

Thanks,
Alan

Alan,
If you are pleased with the X-14s, don’t change. Iron technology is not changing very much; it’s the fashion side that’s alive and well. The laws of physics don’t change as rapidly as the marketing people would like. The technology of metal woods has made significant advances in the last 10 years, but this too is slowing down. Fashion is starting to take the leading role there as well. 

We are close to peaking in terms of performance improvement from equipment; significant advances in equipment performance are fewer and farther between. We all believe in magic, which is fun, but when it comes to a real improvement in performance you’ll be better off in doing some stretching exercises and spending some of those dollars on a lesson or two. Don’t give up on a good old friend. This doesn’t mean you can’t look around, but don’t let your faithful X-14s know you’re looking.

Stay with a good thing for as long as you can. Confidence is worth more than any new set of clubs.  
--Frank

 

 

Dear Frank;

Like most golf fanatics, I have two sets of clubs a travel set and regular set but the specs are different. Each set is representative of the technology of its time, one set with graphite shafts and one with steel shafts.
Am I creating problems for myself by alternating golf sets?
Sincerely

Reginald, OH

Reginald,
There are many of us who have two sets and have decided to keep them in two different locations to avoid the hassle of lugging them each time we visit. Or, as in your case a travel set ready at any time you decide or have to go on the road; “Have clubs will travel”.

It is probably in your best interests to have these sets as nearly identical as possible, if your game is reasonably under control.

There is always an excuse, when renting a set on the road, and justifiably so, for your game not being up to par, unless of course it has the same specs as your own set or you find that your own set wasn’t a good match for you in the first place, and you play lights out.

In your case, you have stated that each set represents ‘the technology of its time’; graphite vs. steel etc. I am sure that there are other differences which may affect your finely tuned game or which you will be able to recognize when striking the ball.

I am an advocate of matching a person to a set of clubs by using and changing the fewest number of variables possible, such as shaft flex, and lie angle, and not straying to far from “standard” for almost everything else. But in your case the technology differences may have an effect which you don’t want to have to overcome each time you change sets.

Somewhat like changing cars from a sporty-stick to sedan-auto drive. The first couple minutes and few miles will be different but nobody is counting your score when you change cars. By the time you get used to your set the game could be over.

Try to keep your sets as similar as possible without spending too much doing so.

 

Would a pro such as Tiger Woods hit each iron further if he used, for example, Taylor Made RAC OS's compared to his Nike blades?  Or since he hits it right in the sweet spot he would carry the blade just as far? 

The size or forgiveness of the iron does not dictate the distance. It is club head speed and club head direction and loft at impact. If you miss-hit the iron only then will the MOI (Moment of Inertia) come into play. Obviously there are other differences between iron and these are center of gravity location etc. but to answer you question a cavity back club will hit the ball the same distance as a blade all else being equal.

Is there any difference in the clubs that Phil Mickelson uses and the ones I could buy off the rack? Would it be possible for me to be using the exact same driver, shaft, grip, etc. as Mike Weir? If so, where do I find a copy of a pro's driver?

Tim O'Coffey
Mackenzie, B.C.

Tim,
If you had exactly the same swing (speed and path etc.) as Phil or Mike then I would suggest that you try to get their specs and duplicate these for your club. These guys are unique and have their clubs tweaked almost every week. As you remember Phil recently carried two drivers with slightly different properties so he didn’t have to adjust his swing to achieve a certain flight of the ball for specific occasions. These guys are good but each requires something a little different. It would behoove you to select a club which suits your swing rather than try to use one which suits someone else’s.

Assuming that Phil’s clubs  (the ones for that week) will perform well for you, is like assuming his shoes will also fit you and be as comfortable for you as they are for him.

I hope this will help in your search for the ideal club for a lefty.
Depending on your skill level I would start with a standard set before you get into the real customized specs.

 

 

I played a round of golf Monday and a few times my ball ended up in the woods or in a very rocky ground. After the round I notice that my 8-iron had a couple of visible dent mark on the bottom. Can I get this repaired or should I cover it with a piece of lead tape?

The dent marks on the bottom of your 8-iron will not affect the performance unless these extend into the face. You may want to sand them down a little if you are disturbed by the aesthetics but don’t use lead tape to cover them up for two reasons; first the tape will look worse than the dent and secondly you will add weight to the head which will increase the swing weight and change the swing dynamics a little. This may not be bad if the swing weight was wrong to begin with but presuming this is not the case just let it be, it’s a battle scar.

While browsing the web I came across a company named 1 Iron Golf. They advocate the benefits of the irons all being the same length, same swing weight; same offset and bounce. The idea I know is not new, however in a lot of respects it seems to make a lot of sense. Their idea of essentially one iron, one swing seems on the surface to have some merit. What do you think of this concept? Hope to hear from you on this idea.

This is not a new concept and I think that every club designer has at one time or another thought about doing it as it solves the problems associated with matching. It results in the same frequency, same swing-weight, same lie angles etc. This is not as efficient as the set lengths we presently have because we need the extra length to get more club head speed and wider arc, which in turn gives us increased distance from the longer (less lofted) irons than the shorter ones. With clubs all the same length we also get the same head speed for each club. The overall effect of this “same” set is that it compresses the differences in distances from the 3- PW through the set to about ¾ of the difference in distance range of a conventional set.

 

I am 6' 5" and my wrist to floor measurement is 38.5". I recently purchased a set of Callaway X-18 irons and was told that I needed standard + 1". The clubs are the best I have ever hit, but as I set up to the ball, the toe of the club head is facing up approximately 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch. Should I go back to a standard length club (which lies pretty level), or should I keep the +1 length and have the lie angle degree flattened?

You must first be sure that the lie is actually wrong before you go changing anything. Remember, the dynamic loft of the club is not the same at impact as it is when you are addressing the ball. The fact that the toe is up in the air at address does not mean the lie is wrong. What you need to do is hit a number of balls and if the flight is to your liking then don’t change a thing. If the ball flight is to the right or left then hit some balls off a lie board with a piece of pressure sensitive tape on the sole. The scuffmark on the tape should be in the center of the sole. If it’s not, then you can make the adjustment.

 

 

I am 57 years old, and have recently switched to offset irons. I do not play as much as I used to and the offset has helped my iron play both in contact and direction. So, if it helped my iron play, why shouldn't I get “Offset Woods”, since they are the hardest to hit. People I have consulted with say Offset woods are not a good idea. Why? Or better yet…Why Not? 
Michael

Michael,
The most important thing is to find a set of clubs that you feel comfortable hitting. I don't know what you were trying to fix, but the off-set will generally get the ball up in the air a little faster and tend to reduce a slice just a bit. This can also be achieved by getting a very forgiving set of irons with a low (and rearward) center of gravity and a slightly upright lie angle. However if slicing is a problem then a lesson from a qualified teaching professional is probably your best bet as a first step. Off-set woods will also behave the way I have described for irons. If you're having a problem slicing the ball and don't want to change your swing then off-set woods will help, but it is band-aid rather than a real solution. If your swing changes for the better, you may have to get another set of clubs without the off-set.

 

 

I know my yardages well and can cover them with an eleven club set. This leaves room for three of several  "one-trick-pony" clubs that I may choose for anticipated shot-specific situations on the course being played. One that I almost always choose is a dedicated sand iron with a lot of bounce.  This precludes me (and my flat swing) from having to endure unwanted excessive bounce on one of my turf wedges. Why is the concept of a dedicated sand iron never discussed on The Golf Channel?
Chuck

Chuck,
I think I have discussed this on The Golf Channel. Well done for not going to 14 clubs just because you're allowed to. The reason most golfers don't have the luxury to have a dedicated sand wedge is that the bag is full of stuff they don't use and they have maxed-out the number of clubs in their bag.

Not too many golfers have the discipline you have shown in your club selection.

I am 6' 5" and my wrist to floor measurement is 38.5". I recently purchased a set of Callaway X-18 irons and was told that I needed standard + 1". The clubs are the best I have ever hit, but as I set up to the ball, the toe of the club head is facing up approximately 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch. Should I go back to a standard length club (which lies pretty level), or should I keep the +1 length and have the lie angle degree flattened?
John A.

John,
You must first be sure that the lie is actually wrong before you go changing anything. Remember, the dynamic loft of the club is not the same at impact as it is the when you are addressing the ball. The fact that the toe is up in the air at address does not mean the lie is wrong. What you need to do is hit a number of balls and if the flight is to your liking then don’t change a thing. If the ball flight is to the right or left then hit some balls off a lie board with a piece of pressure sensitive tape on the sole. The scuffmark on the tape should be in the center of the sole. If it’s not, then you can make the adjustment.

I am thinking about replacing my 3-iron with a hybrid club since they are easier to hit. In looking I have seen 3-iron hybrids with lofts from 17 degrees to 26 degree. My question is what should the loft on the hybrid be to properly replace the 3-iron? Michael

Michael

The hybrid replacement for the 3-iron would have loft of 23 degrees plus or minus a degree, depending on the manufacturer. You will, however, hit this hybrid a little longer than your 3-iron because it will be (should be) one inch longer than the iron. This will give you a little more head speed and it will have a slightly higher trajectory because at impact the dynamic loft will be a little more than the 3-iron. The hybrid will be more forgiving than the iron and you will soon develop the confidence you have with your shorter irons.

I have noticed that some company's irons have higher lofts than others. For example, some have pitching wedges with 48 degrees of loft and others with 45 degrees. Does this difference in loft effect the distance you get with the club? If so, how much does 2-3 degrees effect each club in distance? -- Dustin, Newton, Kan.

Dustin,
The loft of the club does affect the distance you hit the ball. The difference between the loft of a 5-iron and 6-iron is about 4 degrees. The shaft length also changes by about a ½ inch. If both clubs are struck well the difference in distance will be about 15 yards (this may vary depending on the golfer) so you can expect about half this or less from a change of 2 degrees of loft for your wedge if the lengths are the same. By the way, there is no written standard for lofts for different club lengths or the numbering system we have adopted. The industry had an unwritten standard about thirty years ago but when some manufacturers tried to convince golfers that their clubs (comparing 5-irons) were better than some other brand they changed the loft without telling the consumer and the standard (unwritten) was out the window.

My question concerns the new Hawkeye VFT irons and the X-14's, which still seem to be very popular. I would like to know the real difference in performance of these clubs and who should use them. Currently I use Maruman Verity FX irons. Are the VFT's really that much better? I started playing in January of this year and have brought my rounds down to between 90 and 95 from my high of 121 in my first game. I play at least once a week and am not a big hitter. Thanks. -- Sherman

Every new model has something different about it and in most cases this is an improvement no matter how slight. At your particular skill level I would not believe that you would be able to discern the difference in performance between these two models. I would work on my game if you are comfortable with the set you now have and then when you can break 80 is the time to start looking around. A lot of us will stay with a set for 10-15 years if we are well fitted. The time does come when we need a refit and this is the time to look around and try as many sets as you can before you make up you mind.

Several of my golfing friends have purchased new irons over the past two years. They have purchased PING and Callaway sets and have all gained significant distance increases. I seem to be at least 1½ clubs short of them now. I am playing three-year-old Cleveland TA5 irons. Is there any data available that compares different manufacturers irons for distance, trajectory, spin rate, and so on based on standard testing? I would like to explore buying new irons and want to maximize my purchase. -- Neil Norr, Mundelein, Ill.

Neil,
There are a couple of reasons why a different set of irons will perform differently for the same numbered club. First, the loft and the length could be (and usually is) different than your set. I would not worry about how far others are hitting their 7-iron either. If you do not hit the ball far enough with yours, take out your 6-iron, which is probably similar in loft and length to their 7-iron anyway. I recommend sticking with clubs.

How can you REALLY choose a set of clubs that are right for you in the long run? I bought a set of Mizuno MP14s when I was a 30 handicap and in two years I´m now a 14 handicap. Obviously the MP14s are not the right set for a 30 handicap, and I still feel they are not the right set for a 14 handicap. But they might be when I get to a 7-8 handicap. I would like to have a set that´s good for me now, but at the same time, I don´t want to get a new set of clubs every time I lower my handicap. It would really be too expensive. Of course this applies also to my woods. -- Alex , Fla.

Alex,
Well done in reducing your handicap to 14 from a 30. I don't think it is the clubs (MP14s) that did it. These are very good clubs, but you're right: one would not recommend these for a 30 handicapper. You must be a very persistent person. There are many good cavity back irons, which are recommended for the less-skilled golfer, as they are more forgiving and thus less frustrating to hit. There is no reason why you could not use forgiving clubs even if you are scratch (or better) player. Some very good golfers simply choose blades because they are more comfortable with them and they provide the feedback these golfers want. Even the most forgiving woods (metal woods) are used by the best players so you don't need to change these at all as you become a better player. You will know when you need different clubs -- just keep practicing and try different clubs every now and then.

I'm considering buying a new set of clubs. I shoot in the 110 range and will be aggressively working on my game this year. I have received a lot of info from my friends and co-workers about what clubs to get. I'm about 240 pounds and can crush it off the tee, but get no distance with my irons. Most say because of my strength, I need stiff or extra stiff shafts. I don't really know a lot about clubs though. I would appreciate any suggestions you might have. -- Tony Lacy, Sacramento, Calif.

Tony,
I would suggest your first move would be to find a local pro who can advise you based on your physique and skill level. I think a stiff shaft and a clubhead with maximum forgiveness would be my first suggestion. Secondly, I would recommend that you be kind to the little golf ball and not hit it too hard. It will probably perform better for you if you treat it well. A lesson or two to make sure you are working on the right things will help. Hope you break 100 soon, then set your new goal at 90. Enjoy!

I'm a beginning, left-handed golfer and consistently shoot in the low 100's. I've played off and on for years but have only been playing consistently for the last four months.  I'm only 5'5" and have trouble with my woods and long irons. I have off-the-shelf, traditional-length clubs. I hit my 6-iron through my sand wedge good and consistently straight, but I still have problems with my long irons and woods. Do you think I should have my clubs cut down and shortened? -- Mark, FL

Mark,
Join the crowd. A lot of us find that hitting long irons (2, 3, and 4) is difficult. This is not necessarily because they have longer shafts, but possibly because of the clubhead design. Some manufacturers have produced 7- and 9-woods to help resolve the same problems you have, and these work well. I think that you should first try to choke up (i.e. allow an inch or so of the butt end of the grip to extend above the hands) on your longer irons and woods. See if this works and if so then maybe shortening the shafts may work. But if you do this I recommend you do it for the full set of irons, not only the long irons. Have fun.

I am planning on buying a new set of irons early next year. I currently play Titleist 962's and previous to that I had a set of Titleist irons. I am considering buying the Ping i3's (blade model) but I am loyal to the Titleist irons. What have you heard about the new Titleist 762's? Would they be worth waiting for? How do they compare to the Ping i3's? -- Ian

Based on a conversation with the guys that make these Titleist clubs, the 762s will soon be out for you to test. For more information go to www.titleist.com and browse the golf club section. Hope this helps.

I am a new golfer who started going to the range with a friend. I am at the point where I'm hooked and need to buy a set of clubs. I was wondering if you had any suggestions. -- Melvin

Welcome to the game, you are going to have a lot of fun, just don't get intimidated. I suggest you visit a local pro and ask if he or his friends have a second-hand set of a popular cavity back irons. Try these out and then also get a popular big, steel metal wood driver with about 12 degrees of loft to begin with. You will soon know exactly what club.

I am interested in buying a quality set of graphite irons. I am new to the game but committed to the sport (play about onCe a week). I am 6'0" tall and fairly strong, so ladies clubs just don't work. I am having trouble deciding between senior men's and regular men's clubs. I recently went to the local Nevada Bob's and my swing speed with a driver was in the high 70's. I need some advice before I spend the big bucks. I have been playing with men's graphite regular clubs -- old knock-offs. I am leaning toward the Cobra CXI men's regular flex graphite irons. Any suggestions? -- Carlen, Calif.

Don't spend big bucks before you have tried a few different types of shaft flex, weight and length. You should be able to do this through a pro with one of the several good fitting systems. Cobra and Titleist both have demo days and you may be able to try some of the CXI's at that time.

I am a beginner who just completed 10 hours of six-week long instruction. During this course I used the clubs supplied by the school. Now I want to buy my own but I am confused. I am 6-foot-4 and used clubs marked as Std + 1 during the instruction. They were almost 1½ inches longer than the standard clubs. My friends are telling me that I should get standard clubs otherwise they will be expensive. And with longer clubs I will have less control over my swing. They are telling me that's what everyone uses. Is this true? Also, what are the things I should be careful about when buying my first set of clubs? -- Faik, Turkey

You will not have less control of your irons if you increase the length by as much a one inch. In general, a good way to determining your club length is to measure the distance from your finger tips to the ground when your hands are at your sides. If this distance is substantially shorter than most, then you should consider longer clubs. I am 6-foot-3 and my clubs are only ½ inch longer than standard. If you are able to find a pro in Turkey who has a fitting system go to him and try out a few different length 5-irons. You will soon find out the length you are most comfortable with using. Taller people using standard length clubs will generally have a more upright swing plane and will need to have the lie angle changed to be one or two degrees more upright. Hope this helps. Good luck.

What are your views regarding classic forged irons being for low-handicap golfers only? Everyone using those forged blades seems to say the instant feedback on every shot allows them to improve their games, and furthermore, the feeling they get out of a good shot is superior to what they get with cast irons. Vincent, Mauritius

I am a believer in blades, be they forged or not. If you are prepared to work at your game and have a single-digit handicap, then go for it. The sensation is great when you hit the sweet spot and you do have better control and feedback. Be prepared to lose quite a bit of distance and accuracy, if you miss the spot.

I recently went to buy a new set of irons, as I am just starting. The clerk asked me if I was looking for "offset or normal." I looked at him with a puzzled face. What is offset and how does it affect my future game?

Chris Shullaw

 Chris

Offset is when the distance from the leading edge of the club face is set back from the line extending down the front portion of the hosel. In many "normal" set of clubs this offset progresses from almost nothing in the wedge to a noticeable amount in the long irons. I am not a fan of clubs with large amounts of offset but if you have tried to correct your swing for whatever ails you, and if they work for you, then go for it.

I am 14 years of age, about 5-foot-3 and weigh about 112 pounds. I have a handicap of 20. I am looking for a new set of irons to replace my first set, which are my uncle's old clubs and are very stiff, and very old. I have been deliberating for the past few months over which set to buy and have not had much input from my club professional. I have a budget of about $400. Do you think you could recommend a type of iron that might suit me? Also, I cannot decide whether to buy graphite or steel shafts. Can you assist me with my choice? -- Adam , London, England

Adam,

At 112 pounds and 14 years you can look forward to increasing in size and strength and becoming a really good golfer if you stick to it. I do suggest that you ditch your uncle's set and get one that suits your size now. You will soon (in about two years) be needing another set so speak to your pro about getting a good second hand ladies set which will get you through the next 18 months or so. He may have a loaner set. Stick with it Adam this is a game you will never regret playing.

I am in the process of buying new clubs and don't have a clue on how to pick the right ones for me. Is there any set way of knowing how to buy a new set? I am just a weekend player with a 10 to 12 handicap. But I used a friend's clubs and shot the best game of my life, only three over on the first nine. His clubs are a very expensive brand. My cheap set (under $200) is only four years old. Please help. -- Tim Hunt

Tim: If you are a 10 to12 handicap golfer, it is time to invest in a good set of clubs. Don't think that you will always shoot three over on the first nine, however. Go to a pro who has a fitting system to get the right shaft flex, lie angle and weight. Then buy a good set -- the pro might try to sell you the set associated with the fitting system. This may be OK, but it is not necessarily the only set for you. Before you start this process, borrow your friend's set again. There are a number of good sets available that won't break the bank.

I am a college golfer and I play to a plus-3 handicap. I have never been an accurate iron player and I would like to change that. When being fitted for irons, each time I've gone I've received different specs. I am 6-foot-1 and with a driver I swing on average about 115-120 m.p.h. I don't feel I have the proper shafts, I don't know the proper club lengths, and I'm not even sure if I need upright or flat lies -- I have been told both. I hit the ball straight with my misses short right. I need the proper clubs! Can you help? -- Scott Yancy III, Glen Carbon, Ill.

Scott,

If you are a plus-3 handicap then only you know what feels good and gives you the flight and accuracy you want. I suggest you again try to go through the formal trial and error method that the fitting systems provide. Make sure that the lie angles are right for you once everything else feels good. You are too good a player to be encumbered with an ill-fitted set. I wish I could help you more. You may want to go directly to the facility of a major manufacturer to get it right.

Although I can crush a strong 3 wood 270 yards without difficulty, I cannot for the life of me figure out why my irons do not generate a comparable distance down the scale. I average 100 yards for my pitching wedge up to a max of 180 yards for the 3 iron. I generate tremendous loft on my irons shots and I can see how I may be coming in too steep. How can I correct this and is there equipment that I should consider looking at? - Lee Chin Tsin

Lee,

I too am at a loss as to why you hit the ball so far with your three-wood and only 180 with your 3-iron. The club-head speed should still be there (but proportionally slower) for your 3-iron. You are either not hitting the sweet spot on your three iron or the trajectory is way off. Ask you local pro to look at the two flight paths. They should be relatively similar for these two clubs; in most cases the loft of the 3-iron is about 5-6 degrees greater than the three-wood but the loft does not tell the whole story. If your 3-iron is considerably higher than the three-wood, which you have implied and you also carry this through to the other, then this may be the problem. The three-wood is probably producing a low spin rate with a high launch-angle, which is the way to go for maximum distance. If the distance gap between the three-wood and the three iron is too much for you then try adding a five-wood or a 2-iron before you mess with a comfortable iron club swing, which you may not want to change.

BLADES

Frank, 
I watch you all the time on the Golf Channel, and enjoy the equipment segments.  My question is:  I am a scratch golfer and I play with Titleist 680 Forged Blades; most of the time I go to a range that has only mats to hit off of. How much damage in terms of lie angle am I doing to my irons? Specifically if I hit off of mats occasionally will I be knocking the lie of my irons out of whack severely? Thanks for your help.
Mark
 

Mark,
Hitting off a mat for long periods of time using forged clubs is not a good idea.  In most cases (and with a similar swing path) the mat will generally have more resistance than regular turf. After a while, your clubs will start to bend decreasing the loft more than changing the lie. If this changes by more than a degree it will noticeably affect you game at you skill level. I suggest that if you are to practice of a mat surface, check the lofts and lies of your clubs about every month or so to see if they have changed. You should check these every six months anyway... even if you're not practicing off a mat.

 

Hi Frank,
I recently purchased a set of 1995 Hogan Apex blades with the red line and the word "forged" under the Ben Hogan.  I hit them really well even though they are a small blade.  Has there been much change over the years in blade irons?  Would there be any advantage to looking into a new set of apex clubs?
Thanks,
Dennis Sobolewski
Monrovia, CA

Dennis,
If this is a semi cavity back iron and the red line is under the words “Hogan” and “forged” it is the Edge GCD Tour model introduced in 1996 model. The company may have started the introduction in   1995.  This is a good iron and more forgiving than some of the other models that Hogan has produced. If the red line is under the word “Ben” and the word “forged” under “Hogan” then it was introduced in 1978. It is a blade style and less forgiving than the GCD model.

If you hit your irons well then don’t expect magic from a new set.

Yes the technology has changed for the better, in irons and they come in a range of playability factors. About 300 irons are listed on my site in different playability factors categories with suggested use by skill levels. See www.franklygolf.com and search under Maltby Playability Factor.   This is only a guideline.

Of greatest importance is that you feel comfortable with your irons and this will develop confidence. If you are happy with your present set of irons then stay with them but it doesn’t hurt to look around anyway. However don’t expect a significant difference in performance, as the technology in irons has not changed much other than clubs have become a little more forgiving and are thus a little easier to hit. Check my website for some options to look for.

 

I'm 16 years old and have about an 8 handicap. I have had my Ping i3 oversize irons for about a year now and I really like them. They have JZ stiff shafts and I hit my 7-iron about 160 yards. Recently I picked up a set of i3 blades at my pro shop and hit them for a little while in the hitting stall. Since I am lefthanded, they can't use their launch monitor computer to figure out which club would perform better. I liked the feel of the blades but I don't know about their forgiveness and distance attributes. Do you have any advice on the situation? -- Geoffrey, Calif.

The very best thing I can do is to ask you to ask yourself why you want to change when you really like what you have now and you are hitting the ball well. If you want to improve your game don't look for it in equipment when you like what you have. You don’t know how lucky you are to have found something that is really comfortable. Most people spend years and thousands of dollars to do this. I would suggest that you refine your swing through some lessons and watch yourself using a video system. If you insist on changing your set to the Ping Blades (which are really cavity back clubs) I suggest you write my friend John Solheim at Ping directly and ask him to give you the answers to your question. He is the best man to ask about Ping clubs as he makes and designs them. Let me know how you get on.

I am wondering what the advantages of a blade are versus an oversized club. If the oversized club has a bigger sweet spot and thus is more forgiving, why wouldn't everyone hit it? I assume the blade has better control, feel, etc. but do these things make a difference for a novice golfer? -- Jason Hoelz, St. Paul, Minn.

The novice is much better off having clubs with the biggest sweet spot he or she can find. If you're good enough to hit the ball consistently on the sweet spot, blades are the way to go -- they'll give you a lot more feel and the ability to work or shape the ball more. Blades are less forgiving than cavity-backed clubs with off-center hits -- you'll lose a little distance if you don't hit the sweet spot and the ball will go a little more off line.

The best players can hit the sweet spot consistently. Tour pros have a little spot about the size of a nickel, worn away into the clubface, right on the sweet spot, from pounding endless perfect shots on the range. Most of us, however, have a hard time hitting the sweet spot consistently. Some of us can't even find the clubface consistently. So blades are really only meant for better players.

Why would people suggest to me, including my club pro, to switch to blades? My game is down to a point where I am floating around the par mark. My pro has suggested to me if interested to try something like the Mizuno MP33s. I just want to know is this is smart decision -- and are these clubs that are suggested a good switch? -- Chris, USAF (stationed in England)

Chris: Blades are generally not good for the average player. But you are certainly not average. You will be able to work the ball better with a blade but prepare to accept a relatively bad shot when you miss the sweet spot. I would like to suggest you try a set of blades before you invest in one. I think that you will like them. You are certainly a good candidate based on you skill level.

SHAFT

Hi Frank,
   I have a question concerning the correct shaft length of my irons for my height and weight. I have a set of TaylorMade RAC OS irons. I like them a lot, but I feel I could be more consistent with them. I am concerned that the standard-length shafts may be too long, since I am approximately 5'5" tall. I was going to have a club specialist look at my swing to make sure that the lengths are correct for me before possibly cutting them down. Late this past season I had my Cleveland driver cut down approx 1" and it seemed easier for me to get the club back and around. What are your thoughts on this, or are these thoughts just clouding my head?

Thanks for your time.
Kind Regards, 
Rick

Rick,
The standard length set of irons should be fine, but make sure to check the lie angle. If your ball flight is straight, then you probably don’t have a problem with the lie angle; if you hit the ball consistently left or right of the target, then a quick visit to the lie-board will help.  Put some pressure-sensitive tape on the sole of the iron and hit a ball off the board; the scuff mark on the tape should be in the center of the sole. Give this a couple of tries to make sure your swing is consistent in this regard.  If you decrease the length of your irons, you will also decrease the swing weight, which makes it a little easier to get back and through but may not be the right thing to do if you like the club balance at your current length.

The reason you’re having more success with your driver cut down is that it was probably too long to begin with. Most drivers are offered at 45 inches or more because we’re all looking for distance; manufacturers give us what we want as we chase the occasional drive we can brag about, despite the loss of control on the rest of our drives. To my mind, a 44-inch driver is the length that yields the most efficient driving performance. The average length of the drivers on the PGA tour is about 44½ inches, and they’re trying to make a living from their performance.  With a shorter driver, as you’ve seen, you’re more consistent, giving you the confidence to swing better and score better.
If you would like to experiment with shorter irons, try choking down on your standard-length clubs and see how this works before you start cutting anything off.
That’s the long and short of it.

Hi:  Do graphite shafts lose their flex or other qualities as time goes by?  I have irons which came with graphite which I bought new in 1992 and was wondering how well they stand up over time. 

Joe, Charleston, SC

Joe,
Graphite shafts do not lose their flex unless they have been damaged or badly worn. You don’t have to worry about the shafts in your irons but I do suggest that you look into a newer set as yours are 14 years old. Even though technology hasn’t changed very much in irons you may be better off looking around anyway.  You will certainly want to look at a hybrid or two to replace your long irons. If you go to my website (www.franklygolf.com) you will find the results of our survey in which we asked our Frankly Friends to rate their own hybrids and give us some information about which clubs they replaced. We also asked why they selected their hybrids and also their handicap range.

If you sign up as a Frankly Friend by clicking here we will alert you whenever we have this type of interesting information available and/or when our newsletter is published each month.

Good luck and don’t worry about the shafts.

 

I play golf about once a week. I am about an 8 handicap. My average score is in the 70's. I hit my 45 degree PW about 125-130, with the mid 120's being optimal. In this set I hit my 9 iron (full) in the mid 140's.

My driver carry is approx. 250+. I can hit it 290 on some holes, less on others depending on the hole design. My irons have stiff shafts.

Here is my question. I can hit my three iron and four iron. BUT, I find that after I play more and more holes, my swing gets more and more tired, and late in the day it is much, much, harder to hit those two clubs. I hit them better off the tee than the ground. This is not the case with any other club.

Would it be smart, to change out the Stiff flex in the three and four iron to a regular flex? Would this allow me to swing in a more controlled fashion and still benefit from the clubs?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
Mike Dugger

Mike,
If you get tired toward the end of the round, then this probably means that some strength and flexibility exercises are in order and will probably help. You may also need to work on increasing your stamina. Walking three or more miles a day at a reasonable speed will soon get you in good shape for your golf and your general quality of life will also improve. Check with your doctor before you get into any exercise regimen.

The three iron is the first to go wrong when you get tired. But you may find you have a rogue club in your set, so check the frequencies. If these are not all progressing evenly throughout the set then this may be another problem. As the shafts (clubs) get shorter the frequency should increase from club to club.

Also you should recognize that even the pros are going to hybrids replacing the long irons. So don’t feel bad about dumping the long irons for hybrids.

More flexible shafts in your irons as well as converting to graphite is not a bad idea but I would suggest the exercise thing as a good first step followed by the hybrid substitution for the three and four iron.

I have a question about iron club "weight". I am 59 years old and considering purchasing new "lighter" iron set. I am currently shooting Taylor Made burner with steel rifle shafts and I seem to loose technique after 15 holes of golf. I know that changing to a graphite shafts will help but will a lighter club head weight also help? My research indicates that PING G5 with graphite shafts, because they heat treated twice, are harder and therefore thinner and lighter may be may best choice. Before I spend the money, I would appreciate any comments that you may have.
 

As we get older we should start thinking about lighter clubs but you at 59 are not in the “older” group yet.
What you have described as ‘losing your technique after 15 holes’ tells me you are not as fit as you may be. A strength and flexibility regimen is probably in order. Also, to build stamina do some walking but be sure to check with your doctor before you start something new. Some studies have shown that one can achieve an average increase in head speed of 5mph and about 15+ yards by improving range of motion through flexibility exercises.

If this is not an option then a lighter weight club may help take you through the full 18 holes. Graphite shafts with a similar head weigh as you had in your previous set will decrease the overall weight and will require less energy to swing with the same head speed. The G5 is a good set and you will not go wrong investing in a set of them. Remember, the walking thing it will certainly help as well. I hope this helps.

 

Frank, l find your answers to the questions sent to you to be understandable and educational. I would like to ask you a question about shaft flex: How do you know what shaft you should have in your set? I have heard people on the Golf Channel mention that you need to feel the head of the club through the swing. With my own set of Top Flites I have a stiff shaft. When I'm swinging these clubs I get great feel from where I hit the ball -- whether it's on the toe, heel or sweet spot -- but I really don't feel the head of the club during the swing. I have tried some of my friends' equipment with regular shafts. When I swing these clubs, the club feels like it's bending in two and the head feels like it's way behind my hands through the swing. My question, I guess, is to ask if this is the feeling I ought to have during the swing, or does this indicate these clubs are too flexible for my shaft loading/swing speed? For some background on my swing speed, I get about 235-245 yards of carry with my driver.

Rob Marson

Rob,
In general, the shaft flex should be such that you aren't fighting the club and having to swing really hard to get it to perform. In selecting a shaft, you should start at the most flexible and move toward the stiff range rather than the other way round. Most of us use shafts that are too stiff. On the other hand, if it's too flexible then you'll lose a little control and the ball flight will tend to turn left on you.

Feeling where impact was on the face is not what we mean when we talk about feeling the clubhead throughout the swing. That only tells you what happened at impact, and it tells you long after the ball has left and too late for you to do anything about it. A more flexible shaft will help you time your swing more effectively and provide a little feedback during the swing. The best way to find out which shaft flex suits YOU best is the old-fashioned trial and error method.

Only you really know what YOU feel.

When I'm advising beginners who don't know what to expect from their swings, I tell them the rule of thumb is to start with a regular flex if you are a male or a L-flex if you are a female. Once they get things going and have a general idea of where the ball is going, then they should start experimenting with different flexes. If you're getting 235-245 yards of carry from your stiff-shafted driver, are hitting the ball reasonably straight, and feel far too much bend when you swing an R flex, I'd say you've probably got the right shaft for your swing.
Hope this helps.

I"m 20 handicap and not getting any younger. What kind of shafts (graphite/steel) and flex should I use. Thanks.

Grace and peace,
 
Pastor Ed Winkler

Arlington Forest United Methodist Church

 

Pastor  Ed,
I would first recommend that you check with doctor and see if you can get involved in a strength and flexibility exercise regimen. Studies show that three months of flexibility exercises result in a greater range of motion and have increased the average club head speed of 30 to 50 year olds by 5 mph. This will result in 10 to 15 more yards on your drives. This is more than any club or shaft will do for you.

Next I would suggest that you try an R-flex shaft if you have been playing with a Stiff shaft. And certainly try graphite shafts in your irons as I assume you have them in your woods already. If this doesn’t work then the last resort is to say a little prayer. 

Frankly I can only help so much... the rest is up to you

 

I butt cut the shafts on my irons by 1.25 inches recently because the standard length is just too long for my 5'8" build. The shafts are True Temper S300 and the original swing weight was D2. How much have I increased the stiffness of this shaft and decreased the swing weight? Also, I have noticed that my miss hits feel awful and create a serious loss of distance.
At times, my hands also get very sore. Is this from the vibrations of the club and its new makeup? How do I shorten the shaft without losing the weight and feel of the club originally?

I note you have a plus three handicap and I ask myself why you would shorten your clubs after having achieved this skill level with your old(presumably standard) set. Your build of 5' 8” is only one inch shorter than the average male in the US so shaft length should not be a problem. I would make sure that any set you have has the correct lie angle as this will affect the flight path significantly If, however, you decide to butt cut the club by 1.25 inches then the swing weight will go down about 7 points and the shaft will feel a little stiffer, depending on the type of shaft taper at the butt end.

To come up with a similar feel that you had with your old set let me suggest that you add weight (lead tape) to the head. This should get the feel back close to the original but if not then you need to get a more flexible shaft.

Are there any particular factors (other than how I hit the potential candidates on the range) that I should consider in deciding whether I buy a steel shafted hybrid or a graphite shafted one? John

John,

Since the hybrids have become very popular, manufacturers have been making graphite shafts specifically for them. I would suggest that you try a graphite shaft in your 3-hybrid (19 degree) as the transition will not be substantial from your fairway woods, which I assume are graphite. The hybrid with a graphite shaft will be about 1 1/2 inches longer than the 3-iron (or if it is a steel shaft, only 1 inch longer). The head speed will increase by about 5 mph over the 3-iron and the ball will have a higher trajectory with more spin. Because of the high MOI it will be more accurate (forgiving) than the 3-iron and I know you are going to love it but try it on the range before you buy it if you can.

 

 

Does spining or "pureing" a golf shaft really make a difference in performance? Brian

Brian,

If you have a bad quality set of graphite shafts, orienting these in the same way in each of your clubs (pureing) may make a difference. If the quality of your shafts are this bad though, you may be better off by buying a better quality shaft in the first place.

Will adding some lead tape make my iron shafts softer/more flexible? Vince D.

Vince,

When you add lead tape to the head of the club you will not only increase the swing weight but also the overall weight. This will make the shaft feel softer because the frequency decreases similar to when you stick a long knife into a board and twang it. It will vibrate or oscillate with a certain frequency. Now, if you add lead tape to the handle of the knife and twang it again it will vibrate slower. This is decreasing the frequency. The problem with this is that you now have to swing a heavier club which may be to your liking but will result in a slower head speed with the same energy input. By the way a longer same flex shaft will also feel more flexible if nothing else changes. In general if you want to make the shaft feel softer and not affect the overall weight you need to get a more flexible shaft which I recommend.

In the "What's in my bag," section of the March 2002 issue of Golf Digest, Charles Howell III says that his irons are "tipped an inch and a half" to keep ball flight down. I hit the ball rather high and am looking for ways to keep the ball down too. Could you explain the ins and outs of "tipping" (i.e. does it move the position of your hands in relation to the clubface; can it be done to clubs you currently have or must it be done during production?) The pros and cons? -- Kyle Roof

Kyle,
Tipping (not the waitress that is) is something done by custom club fitters to lower the kick point. A shaft is more flexible toward the tip end and by cutting or trimming a new shaft from the tip, it will shorten that section thus making it a little stiffer. This, in most cases, will lower the trajectory of the ball flight. If you do this to your existing set it will shorten the length of the club so you may have to get a new set of shafts.

Please reply, as you are the only one I can trust. I had my irons custom fitted to me last year (one-inch longer than normal). However, after a year of play, I find that the long irons (3-6) are a little bit too long in length. I try to choke down on them but it doesn't feel right. I played with a normal length 4-iron yesterday and found that I could control the ball much better. My short irons feel great -- it's just the loss of control for the longer irons. Therefore, I would like to ask if it is typical to have long irons extended only by a ½ or ¾ of an inch and the short irons extended the full one-inch? I look forward to hearing your opinion. -- Arthur Chang, Vancouver, British Columbia

Arthur,
Thank you, and hope I am worthy of your trust. What you are proposing is not typical but it doesn’t matter. The short irons, 9- SW are generally the same length anyway and should be what suits your game and comfort zone best. Most of us try to adapt our swings to standard set lengths, which may not be the right thing to do for everyone. To answer your question, there is nothing wrong with having your longer irons a little shorter than standard and your shorter irons a little longer than standard. I do suggest, however, that you try to even this out rather than create a large step difference from your 6 to your 7-iron, for instance. Try to shorten that 4-iron such that you are griping it in the proper position (by choking down on the existing grip you may be affecting the feel). Don’t stick to a convention just because it’s the norm. Only you will really know what’s right for you.

Hi Frank. I have been playing golf now for about two years and have improved tremendously and was wondering if it is possible that I have outgrown the shafts in my irons. It seems like I have to do more work and I'm only getting a higher ball flight. I have tried many different head/shaft combinations and it seems like with stiffer shafts I have more control and they go a little bit further. Right now I am playing Mizuno MP33's with a TT S300 shaft. My swing speed with my 5-iron is around 92-95 mph. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -- Terry Norman

Terry,
With a 5-iron swing speed of 95-mph you are in the super-fast bracket and definitely need to look at stiffer shafts than the 300's. You have a good set of heads so get one of them re-shafted and try it out before you get the complete set done. Good luck and slow down a little.

I purchased a set of knock-off irons about eight rounds ago and may be regretting it. During my second round my 9- iron shaft snapped at the neck sending the iron down the fairway. The guy I bought it from replaced it at no charge but I began to wonder about the quality. Last weekend my 7-iron snapped off at the driving range. Both of these were very soft shots without taking any turf. Should I have bitten the bullet and purchased name-brand irons, or get them all re-shafted? All my irons are graphite shafts. -- Patrick Dolphin, Arcadia, Calif.

Patrick,
Knock-offs are not the way to go, as you have found, if you are a serious golfer. If you can't afford the real thing, go for a second-hand set. A good pro should be able to help you out even though he/she is not going to make the mark-up the way they would from a new set. But they might make a good friend in you and potentially a good customer down the line. Clubs don't wear out in two or three years either -- a lot of golfers who change their clubs often believe in magic. Get one of these sets that has not yet lost it's magic.

I am 6'5" and measure 32 inches from my fingertips to the floor. I recently bought a new set of irons and specified, among other things, that I wanted them to be 1" over standard because that was the specification to which my old irons had been made to. I was suprised to find that the new irons are uniformly 1" longer than the old ones. For example, the length of shaft in the old 5 iron is 38" and the length of shaft in the new 5 iron is 39". I am interested to know, if there is a standard, what is it and the consequences of playing with clubs that are either too short or too long. -- Regards, Gerard Cranley, London, UK.

Gerard,
If your old clubs were built more than 25 years ago, then one inch over standard for a five iron would be about 38". Today the standard length for a five iron is about 37¾" long so one inch over standard would be close to 39". If you find these too long you can always take the grip off and shorten them by ½ inch or so. Your clubs must feel comfortable but check that the lie angle is correct. Any pro who has a club fitting system can help you determine this.

My name is Sam Mckenney. I am a teaching professional at Skokie Country Club in Glencoe, Ill. A couple of months ago Titleist did its annual clubfitting seminar and invited the True Temper shaft lab to come along. I had my swing analyzed and the results were interesting. The gentleman leading the exercise told all the pros there that he guaranteed that all of our shafts were too stiff. According to most of the readouts he was right. Where I am confused is with a member of ours. The member is about 60 years old, has a decent swing, but releases the club too early. He went through the shaft lab and the results were as follows: on a driver, average shaft deflection, low clubhead droop at impact, low clubhead lead at impact, and fast to medium downswing time. With these results why would the shaft lab recommend an EI70 stiff and/or a Grafalloy Prolite stiff. In my mind these two shafts are totally different. He has no lead, no droop and very little shaft deflection, plus his maximum shaft deflection is not that close to the impact line. With this information what would you recommend? -- Sam Mckenney, Glencoe, Ill.

Sam,
Based on the information you've given with regards to your member's age, profile and swing, it sounds like he would need a fairly flexible shaft. With the description you've given me, something very stiff doesn't seem like a good fit.

Why do stiff-flex shafts feel so much stiffer on a driver than on irons or fairway woods? I had my Titleist 975D reshafted with a UST Proforce 65 R-flex, and that feels about the same as the Proforce 65 S-flex on my 975F (14 degrees), and comparable to the Dynamic Gold S300 steel shafts that I have on my Mizuno T-Zoid Sures. I've tried stiff graphite shafts on drivers before, but they've all felt too boardy and hollow at impact, unlike the solid feeling I get from S-flexes on fairway woods and irons. Am I missing something here? -- Billy, Providence

Billy,
It is generally accepted in 'set matching circles' that frequency is a good indicator of feel. Also, that the driver should have a lower frequency than the 3-wood and so on down the set. I would first measure the frequencies of these two clubs and if they fit with the accepted method but still feel too stiff, then go for a more flexible shaft for your driver until it feel good. What feels good to you is more important than any conventions.

For someone with arthritis and tendentious, will graphite or steel with sensicore give the most vibration reduction? Will adding a vibration reducer further reduce vibration on steel or graphite? And is steel more accurate and consistent? How close are the best graphite shafts to steel? -- MJ Draper

Studies show that those vibrations only dampen out at a very high frequency and that there's no real affect on the skeletal system. As for your last two questions, generally speaking steel is more consistent than graphite, but a good, quality graphite shaft is almost as comparable as a steel shaft.

I am going to buy a new set of  irons, but am struggling with what flex shafts I should put in them. I am 15 years old and about 5-foot-5 and I hit my driver about 220 yards, an easy 6-iron about 150 What flex shafts should I lean towards while checking out a demo day? -- Brett Wise, State College, Pa.

Brett,
As you are hitting the ball well with your existing set, why don’t you start with the same flex in the demo set. Normally, I would suggest that you start with a regular flex and work up to stiffer flexes. I don’t know when there's a demo day in State College (click here for more information), but I hope it’s indoors at this time of the year.

I recently played a round with a set of steel shafted irons and found that I liked the feel and balance. It also seemed that my swing tempo was better. My own irons have graphite shafts. I'm thinking of buying a new set of irons and wonder if I should switch to steel shafts. When I was younger I played a lot of tennis and my hands bothered me when I played with a steel tennis racket. The problem went away when I switched to a composite racket. I'm afraid I will have the same problem again with the shock transmitted with through steel shafted clubs. Is this true? -- Bob Westgate, Arlington, Texas

I don’t believe that there is any sound evidence that graphite shafts or damping devices in steel shafts will prevent or reduce the shock waves, which may cause damage to your system. The frequencies which are transmitted to the skeletal structure of you body and which may cause some harm are the low frequencies and not those which damping devices or graphite will reduce or partially block out. If you like the steel shafted set go for it.